Chasing light on the Deosai Plains: a photographer's Skardu diary

As a landscape photographer, Skardu had been at the top of my list for years. Last July I finally gave it a full week, and it delivered frames I am still proud of.

Why late July

I timed the trip for the Deosai window. The plateau is only reliably open around July to September, and late July hits the sweet spot when the wildflowers carpet the plains. It is the world's second-highest plateau, and the light up there at over 4,000m is unlike anything at lower altitudes — clean, sharp and ever-changing.

The shots that made the trip

• Sheosar Lake at first light — perfectly still, snow peaks reflected, not a soul around. I camped near the plateau the night before to be in position by dawn, and it was worth every cold hour.
• Katpana cold desert at sunset — sand dunes glowing gold with snow mountains behind them. Surreal, and only minutes from Skardu town.
• Upper Kachura Lake in flat morning light, deep blue and mirror-calm.
• Shigar Fort against the green valley in late-afternoon side light.

Gear and practical notes

I kept it simple: one body, a wide and a mid-zoom, a sturdy tripod, plenty of spare batteries (cold kills them fast), and a circular polariser for the lakes. A 4x4 with a local driver who knew the Deosai tracks was essential — do not attempt that plateau in a normal car. I budgeted around PKR 18,000 for the Deosai vehicle day, which split well with two other photographers I teamed up with.

Altitude is real

Deosai is high, and I felt it — a dull headache the first afternoon and shortness of breath hauling gear. Go slow, hydrate, and do not plan your most demanding shoot for your first hours up there.

Tips for photographers

• Keep a buffer day; if your Skardu flight cancels you lose shooting time.
• Shoot the lakes early before the wind picks up and ruins reflections.
• Carry every battery you own and keep them warm in an inside pocket.
• Respect the park — Deosai is a protected home to Himalayan brown bears; keep your distance and leave no trace.

Skardu is a landscape photographer's dream, but it rewards patience and preparation. Give it a full week, time it for Deosai, and let the high light do the work.