Travelling abroad with three children aged four, eight and eleven sounds like madness, and some days it was. But Istanbul turned out to be one of the most child-friendly cities we have visited, and far easier than I feared. Here is our honest experience, mum to mum.

The flight from Lahore

We flew Turkish Airlines direct from Lahore, which I cannot recommend enough when you have little ones — no layover meltdowns, no dragging sleepy kids through a second airport at 3am. It cost us more (around PKR 220,000 per adult, less for the children), but for our family the direct flight was worth every extra rupee in sanity alone.

Why we stayed in Sultanahmet

I had read that Taksim was livelier, but with kids I wanted everything within walking distance, and Sultanahmet delivered. Our apartment-hotel was about PKR 20,000 a night for a family room, and we could walk home for the toddler's nap whenever the day fell apart. Being able to retreat to the room at 2pm and come back out at 5pm refreshed was the single best decision of the trip.

Kids do not care about museums

Here is the truth no guidebook tells you: my children were bored stiff inside Topkapı Palace but absolutely thrilled by the public ferries. We rode the Bosphorus commuter ferry back and forth, bought them simit (sesame bread rings) from the deck seller, and they fed the seagulls for an hour. It cost almost nothing and they still talk about it. Lesson learned — with young kids, lean into ferries, parks and bazaars over ticketed indoor sights.

Food was the easy part

As a Pakistani family, halal food was a complete non-issue, which took so much stress off me. The kids lived on pide (they called it Turkish pizza), grilled chicken, rice and endless Turkish bread. Fresh pomegranate juice from street carts was a daily treat at around PKR 500 a cup. I always kept a stash of biscuits and water in my bag for the inevitable hangry moments between meals.

Practical warnings for parents

• The Grand Bazaar is overwhelming with a stroller — go early, hold hands, and agree a meeting point in case you get separated.
• Trams get packed — we found mid-morning and early afternoon calmer than rush hour.
• Cobblestones in the old city are brutal for strollers; a lightweight carrier for the youngest was a lifesaver.
• Toilets at mosques and metro stations sometimes charge a few lira, so keep coins handy.

The moment it all came together

On our last evening we climbed to the terrace of Süleymaniye Mosque as the sun set over the Golden Horn and the azaan rose across the whole city at once. My eldest went quiet, which never happens, and just watched. My husband and I looked at each other and knew the chaos of three kids on planes and trams had been completely worth it.

Would I do it again?

Absolutely, and sooner than I expected to say that. Istanbul is patient with families. Pick a central base, lower your sightseeing ambitions, lean on the ferries and the food, and your children will surprise you with how much they love it. Ours are already asking when we go back.