If you do one thing in Dubai that isn't a mall, make it the desert safari. I went in slightly sceptical — how good can a few sand dunes be? — and came back genuinely thrilled. Here's exactly how my evening played out, so you know what to expect before you book.

The pick-up

A 4x4 collected us from our Deira hotel in the late afternoon. That's the standard arrangement: most safaris include hotel pick-up and drop-off, which made it painless. After about 45 minutes of city driving we reached the edge of the desert, where the driver let some air out of the tyres for grip. That's when the fun started.

Dune bashing: hold on

This is the headline event — the 4x4 charges up and slides down the dunes like a rollercoaster on sand. It is genuinely exhilarating and a little scary. If you get motion sickness, sit in the front and go easy on lunch beforehand. My advice: it's brilliant for teens and adults, but ask for a gentler ride if you've got very young kids along.

The desert camp

After the bashing we reached a camp set up for sunset. Here's the run of things:

• Camel rides — short but a proper photo moment.
• Sandboarding — sliding down a dune on a board; harder than it looks, very fun.
• Henna and Arabic dress — the kids and the women in our group loved this.
• Sunset over the dunes — genuinely one of the most beautiful things I've seen; have your camera ready.

Dinner under the stars

As it got dark, a BBQ buffet was served — grilled meats, rice, salads, plenty of vegetarian options, all halal. We ate sitting on cushions while a tanoura dancer and a belly-dance show performed. Away from the city lights, the night sky was incredible. For a Pakistani traveller used to hazy city skies, seeing that many stars was worth the trip alone.

The dune bashing gets the hype, but it was the quiet bit — sitting in the sand after dinner, stars overhead, tea in hand — that I keep thinking about.

What it cost and tips

A standard evening safari with pick-up, dinner and the shows runs in the region of AED 120–200 (roughly PKR 10,000–16,000) per person depending on the operator and how premium the package is. Tips from my evening:

• Book the evening slot, not the morning — sunset and the BBQ are the best parts.
• Wear closed shoes and bring a light jacket; the desert gets cool after dark.
• Confirm hotel pick-up is included so you're not arranging your own transport.
• Go on a clear night for the stars.

It was the highlight of my Dubai trip and the one thing I'd tell every first-time visitor not to skip. Sort your hotel first — most central Dubai hotels can point you to a reputable safari operator.