We had it all planned: fly Islamabad to Skardu, land beside the mountains, done. Then the night before, the message came — flight cancelled, weather. My wife and I had a choice: lose two days waiting for the next one, or drive. We drove, and it became the best part of the trip.

The decision

We found a shared Land Cruiser through our hotel in Skardu, which arranged a driver coming back up the next morning. The plan was Islamabad to Chilas day one, Chilas to Skardu day two via the Indus road. Long days, but doable.

What the drive was actually like

I will not pretend it was easy. It is around 18–20 hours of mountain driving split over two days, and parts of the road keep you alert. But the Karakoram Highway is an experience in itself — Nanga Parbat viewpoint near Raikot, the confluence of the Indus and Gilgit rivers, and that final stretch along the Indus into Skardu where the valley suddenly opens up. You simply do not get that from a plane window.

What it cost

The shared vehicle for the two of us, plus one night in Chilas and meals on the road, came to roughly PKR 45,000 for the journey up. Not cheap, but comparable to what two cancelled flight reschedules and lost hotel nights would have cost us anyway.

Skardu itself

Once we arrived, the rest fell into place. Shangrila was as dreamy as the photos, Upper Kachura Lake even more so because it was quiet, and our day on the Deosai Plains in July — wildflowers everywhere, Sheosar Lake like a mirror — was the highlight of the entire year.

What I learned

• Always keep a buffer day for northern flights. We had one, and it saved us.
• If your flight cancels, do not panic — the road is a real, scenic alternative.
• Start road days early; you want to reach Chilas and Skardu before dark.
• Carry cash, snacks and warm layers. The road has long stretches with little service.

If you are nervous about Skardu flights being unreliable, here is my honest take: build in flexibility, and treat the road as an adventure rather than a backup. We came home with a far better story than a smooth flight would have given us.