A Karachiite's weekend of eating my way through Lahore

As a Karachi girl, I had heard my whole life that Lahore food hits different. Last winter I finally flew up for a long weekend to find out, and I came home a believer (and two kilos heavier).

Getting there

I booked a Friday evening flight from Karachi to Lahore — about an hour and a half in the air — and a Sunday night flight back. Flying in the evening meant I did not waste a working day, and I landed in time for dinner.

The eating itinerary

I planned my whole trip around meals, which I regret nothing about.

• Friday night: dinner on Fort Road Food Street, on a rooftop with the Badshahi Mosque lit up behind us. The view alone was worth the trip; the karahi and seekh kebabs were a bonus.
• Saturday breakfast: halwa puri and a glass of lassi in the old city. Heavy, glorious, and I needed a walk afterwards.
• Saturday lunch: proper Lahori nihari. I now understand the hype.
• Sunday morning: phajja siri paye, which my Lahori friend insisted was non-negotiable. She was right.

Between meals I squeezed in the Walled City, Wazir Khan Mosque (that tilework!), and Lahore Fort. But let us be honest, the food was the main character.

Where I stayed

I booked a mid-range hotel in Gulberg for around PKR 16,000 a night — central, close to cafés, and easy for ride-hailing everywhere. For a short trip, staying central saved me a lot of travel time.

What the weekend cost

Excluding flights, my two and a half days — hotel, all that food, ride-hailing and entry tickets — came to around PKR 55,000. Honestly reasonable for how much I ate and saw.

Tips if you do the same

• Go in winter. Lahore food is heavier and far more enjoyable when it is not 42°C.
• Use ride-hailing apps; they are cheap and save you haggling.
• Pace your meals — do not do nihari and paye on the same morning unless you plan a long nap.
• Carry a dupatta for the mosques and shrines.

If you have been putting off a Lahore food trip, stop. A single weekend is enough to fall in love. I am already planning my next one, this time for the fried fish season.