I came to Islamabad expecting a quiet capital and a couple of monuments. What I did not expect was to fall in love with a hiking habit. The Margalla Hills rise right at the edge of the city, and within minutes of my hotel I was on a forest trail with the whole capital spread out below me.

Which trail I chose

I started with Trail 5, which is the most popular and well-marked. It is a steady climb through the forest up toward the Pir Sohawa road, and on a clear morning the views are wonderful. The next day I tried Trail 3, which is steeper and busier but rewards you with a viewpoint over the city. Both are doable for a reasonably fit beginner if you take your time.

Why mornings

I learned quickly to start at first light. The air is cool, the trail is quiet, and the city below catches the early sun beautifully. By mid-morning it gets warm and crowded, especially on weekends. Sunrise on the trail, with the call to prayer drifting up from the city, is something I will not forget.

The monkeys

A word of warning: there are monkeys, and they are bold. Do not carry visible food, and definitely do not try to feed them — I saw one snatch a snack straight out of someone's hand. Keep your bag zipped and your distance.

Refuelling at the top

On the day I made it up toward Pir Sohawa, I treated myself to breakfast at a café with a view over the entire city. Chai never tasted better than after a climb. It is a popular spot, so it can be busy, but the view earns it.

Practical tips

• Start at sunrise for cool air, fewer people and the best light.
• Wear proper shoes; some sections are rocky and dusty.
• Carry at least a litre of water; there is little shade in places.
• Keep food hidden from the monkeys and never feed them.
• Use a ride-hailing app to reach the trailhead — the city is spread out.

If you think of Islamabad as just a stopover before the mountains, do yourself a favour and give the Margallas a couple of mornings. It turned a functional city stop into one of my favourite parts of the whole trip.